Why should I choose a ProCharger over another supercharger?
In my personal opinion, ATI ProCharger is the #1 way to go when it comes to late-model supercharging. There is a good deal of competition out there, and some manufacturers have cheaper solutions than what ATI may offer for your vehicle. If I wanted to, I could very easily pick up another supercharger product line. Many of them are very decent systems, too. As far as I'm concerned, however, ATI ProCharger is definitely the best bang for the buck. Therefore, I haven't bothered working with any other manufacturers. ATI is a great company to deal with, and they put together a great kit for every vehicle. An intercooler system is included in almost every kit, and most vehicles have several kits to choose from depending on how modified your vehicle is, what kind of power you want to make, and how much money you want to spend. If you want to hear ATI's own boast as to why they're the best, you can check out their site at http://www.procharger.com.
(Back to Top)
Do I want to do the installation myself or should I have it done professionally?
The installation procedure is fully documented in the owner's manual that comes with every system. Installation is generally engineered to only require common hand tools such as socket sets, pliers, etc. You're probably up to the task if you have decent basic mechanical skills, and can do things such as your own brakes and wiring up a car stereo. It is even better if you have any friends that have such skills and are willing to help. Having at least one other with such skills to help with the installation is always a big help, but not necessary. Mounting the supercharger and pulleys is pretty straightforward--the same goes for installing an intercooler system. Many kits include an inline or in-tank fuel pump that needs to be installed and wired up. Almost every kit includes an FMU which needs to be installed and then later, tuned. Every part of the process is in the installation procedure, including the simple tuning involved with the FMU. ATI does have a terrific technical staff that you can call on for help with the installation, if need be. If you're not handy with a wrench and wouldn't even consider doing your own brakes or any electrical work, you may want to consider seeking professional assistance. If you're not sure if you can handle it, my best suggestion is to take a look at the owner's manual for your vehicle and see what you think. Even if you think you can handle most of it but want to get help with certain parts, that could save you a good portion of an installation bill.
(Back to Top)
If I don't think I can handle the installation, where should I take everything to have it installed?
Finding an installer can sometimes be tricky. Naturally, you will want to find an installer that has experience, will charge a fair price, and is as close as possible to where you live. The best thing to do is to find a good reference from someone that had their system installed by a professional in your area. If you know any gearheads in your town, you should ask them first. You might also consider stopping into some local performance shops and seeing if they have any recommendations. As with any shop or mechanic, it's better to go somewhere you get a good reference from first, however. Plenty of shops or mechanics that need work may tell you they could do it no problem--and it is a quite basic procedure. However, if I'm going to pay good money for a professional installation, I would prefer they have experience You can always go to a popular internet forum and try to find references in your area. Most forums have a separate forum for Forced Induction that may be a good place to start. You don't even need to stick to forums about your specific vehicle. For example, if you can find a reputable installer that does mainly Mustang installations, chances are they will do a decent job on a Camaro as well. The basics of installing any ProCharger kit are very much the same.
(Back to Top)
Do you do installations and can I bring my car to you?
Although we have a good amount of experience with the installation of certain ProCharger systems, we do not do any professional installations. If you need to find an installer, reference the information above.
(Back to Top)
How much boost can I safely run on my motor?
If a motor has miles, then that safe level drops a little in most cases. If you want to be truly safe, you're always better off going with less boost. The pistons and rings in most naturally aspirated cars are not intended to stand up to the increased heat levels and force that is created by a supercharger. If you switch to forged pistons and performance rings, then your engine is in a much better position to push the limits a little. For example, take a `93-97 F-Body with an LT1 engine. That engine is rated by ATI to be able to handle 7-8 PSI. And that rating is for a NEW motor, not one with many miles on it at all. If the owner does not want to take any risks of having to rebuild the motor before they are ready, it's probably a better idea to only run 6-7 PSI. Let's say the engine has 65k miles on it. It's probably a better idea to run no more than 6 PSI to keep it nice and safe. That's not to say you wouldn't be able to go with more. You may be able to run 8 PSI for a good while without having any troubles--especially if your motor is babied and very rarely driven hard. (Which is rarely the case with us performance nuts!) There are plenty of guys that might say to go with the 8 PSI. However, it's not too infrequently that I see someone end up breaking something because they were trying to get as much as they possibly could out of their setup.
A good analogy is the usage of nitrous. If someone tells you can't go with any more than a 200 shot without blowing something up, it's safer to go with a 175 shot. It's even safer if you go with a 150 shot. If the 200 shot is the max you can get away with, you're definitely walking a thin line going with that much.
What it all really boils down to is how bad it would be for you to push it to the limit and end up needing some repairs. If you car is a daily driver and you don't have a backup car to get you to work, you're probably a lot better off playing it safe. If you only take your car to the track and want to see how much you can get out of it, then going with as much boost as possible might be the way to go! Especially if you were planning on rebuilding the motor soon anyway!
(Back to Top)
What are the Differences Between the P-1SC and D-1SC Head Units?
The differences between the P-1SC and D-1SC are not many. The housing is the same, the step-up is the same, but the bearings are heavier duty in the D-1SC, I believe. The main difference is the helical impeller in the D-1SC, as opposed to the radial impeller in the P-1SC. The helical impeller provides for a sharper boost curve (more boost at lower RPM). The radial impeller in the P-1SC provides a smoother, flatter boost curve and is more appropriate for milder applications and mainly street-driven cars. For stock or mildly modified motors, the D-1SC is quite often unusable because its boost output will be too high for the motor to handle, even with the lowest pulley ratio. ATI generally specifies that the D-1SC is for modified motors only. Depending on the motor and current modifications, if any, you can sometimes use the D-1SC and use a pulley combination that will result in a low enough (and safe enough) boost level. If your motor is modified and you have the option to use either, you then need to decide which one would be better for you to use.
The P-1SC produces a flatter boost curve due to the radial impeller. Whether that's better or not depends on what you're looking to get out of it. For enjoyable street performance I would say it is better. The flatter curve means a more gradual boost increase as the RPMs increase. This is generally better for stock or mildly modified motors as it is easier on the motor at lower RPM than the D-1SC. It also helps keep too much boost from coming on quickly--something that can often be undesirable on the street, where traction can often be less than decent (in terms of wheelspin). On a stock or mild motor, either unit can easily make the same maximum boost output and the power gains will be similar. You will probably be less likely to overboost the motor and cause internal damage with the P-1SC. Besides being a few hundred dollars cheaper, the kits that include the P-1SC typically include longer warranties on the unit, as well. For a street car that will see infrequent track time (if any) the P-1SC probably makes more sense.
The D-1SC's helical impeller just brings the boost on more quickly at low RPM, which is better for making power for the track (where you have more traction to make good use of it). That's why the D-1SC is considered to be more of a street/strip blower where the P-1SC is considered to be more of a street blower. Both units are rated to have very similar maximum HP limits, but what differs is the level of strain it will place on the unit itself. It is advised to use the D-1SC over the P-1SC for high power applications. Even if you pulley either unit to make the same maximum boost (say 12 PSI at 5000 RPM just for example) the D-1SC is more efficient and therefore does not need to work as hard (spin as fast) to make that power. This is easier on the supercharger itself, which will aid in the longevity of the unit. It also cuts down on heat output levels by not working the unit as hard. If you already have a built up motor or have big plans to go with higher boost and forged internals, then you probably would be best to get the D-1SC along with the most capable intercooler available.
(Back to Top)
Which is better for use in my race system, a Cog Drive or a Belt Drive?
If the vehicle is a mostly street driven application or is more of a show car, then the rib drive system should be fine. A cog drive system can be driven on the street without a problem--however, ATI does not offer a warranty on blowers that run with a cog drive. The big advantage of a rib drive is that the blower can include a warranty. For an extremely high horsepower application, the cog drive has the benefit of eliminating the possibility of the belt slipping. In some cases, a cog drive system will not be compatible with your accessories (i.e. air conditioning, power steering) so that should be taken into consideration as well.
(Back to Top)
What if I don't need certain parts that are included in a kit? Could I have a custom kit put together?
ProCharger prices the kits in such a way that you are getting a deal by purchasing all the components as a package. If you were to buy all of the components of a kit separately, it would be extremely expensive as they would be marking up the price on the products individually instead of as a whole. A completely custom pick-and-choose kit could be put together, but it would probably be much more expensive that the standard kit because they would be selling the parts individually, instead of as a package. It's essentially similar to when you go to McDonald's and they offer a value meal. If you only need a few components, sometimes you can save money by just ordering them separately. However, if you need a head unit, the mounting bracket and hardware, and an intercooler system, in most cases you're already going to save money by just purchasing a complete kit. Also, you always have the option of trying to sell off the parts you don't use!
However, they are aware that for some applications, a more involved fuel system or tuning may be needed. Because of this, they do provide the option to not include their fuel pump or FMU with a kit for some savings. In that sort of situation, they are assuming you will be providing you own fuel delivery and management components that are at least as capable as what they normally provide. When ATI includes a fuel pump or FMU in a kit, it is because that item is necessary for proper operation of the system. Therefore, if you choose to delete them from the kit you definitely want to have something to use in place of those components. In the case of other possible unnecessary components (such as chips, microtuners, etc.) ProCharger usually offers them as options to begin with. If there are any other specific parts that you think are included in a kit that you wouldn't need, you can always inquire by contacting us and we'll see what we can do.
(Back to Top)
How much will shipping be on a complete system?
All of our website pricing for ProCharger systems includes FedEx 2-Day shipping straight to your door from ATI once the order is prepared. For comparison with other vendors, shipping costs on a complete kit are typically $75-85. Therefore, if the kit price is $3500 you should figure that's the equivalent of another vendor charging that much less. The reason we price the systems that way is because it is much easier than going back and forth getting shipping quotes for each potential buyer. Every order is put together and shipped directly out of the ATI main warehouse in Kansas. It usually only takes a few days to get everything together and shipped out. Depending on how busy they are at the moment, or if any components happen to be on backorder, it can sometimes take longer.
(Back to Top)